Black rhinos differ greatly in temperament; some are relatively placid, while others are highly strung and liable to charge at the sound of a snapping twig. This can make rhino tracking a rather tense affair. Some time ago, I was involved in a rhino reintroduction project for two years. One of my first experiences of tracking was also the most unnerving. And, frankly, humiliating. I was accompanied at the time by two rhino monitoring officers: they had just spotted a female b

Have you ever wondered how one otter species would react if it met another? I did, and for a long time. Peru is fortunate to count no fewer than three otter species among its fauna. There’s the diminutive and frisky gato del mar, or ‘cat of the sea,’ a.k.a. the marine otter (Lontra felina), which, as its name implies, occurs along most of the country’s coastline. There’s the impressive lobo de rio or ‘river wolf,’ known to English speakers as the giant otter (Pteronura brasil

Recently, a good friend of mine posted a link on Facebook to an article entitled A Sad Tale of Photographing in Yellowstone, by professional photographer Nasim Mansurov. Here is the comment she included with that link: "This is my back yard, and we've seen tourism skyrocket over the past four years. Yellowstone and Grand Teton are being overwhelmed - it is completely out of control. It seems we've crossed a tipping point of numbers and bad behavior. There seems to be a comple

I’m sitting on a concrete walkway which spans the Lurin River, in Pachacamac, Lima, Peru. Our house is just five minutes’ walk – or a brief debate about the relative strengths and weaknesses of Captain America, Thor, Iron Man, and Hulk – from here. Few people would think this a pretty river. It has been bulldozed and channelled into submission, though the winter rains can still rouse it to a semblance of its former glory. Its banks have been tampered with, its sand and gravel

The torrential rain that delayed our departure from camp at last dwindles to a fine mist. Half an hour later, a watery sun glints on polished leaves and highlights drops trembling at their tips. The forest is hushed, the cicadas and crickets seem chastened by the downpour. We set forth in subdued anticipation. People rarely visit Peru’s Manu National Park during the wet season and the neglected trail beneath our feet is a level, cleansed canvas. Any animal tracks that we enco